The textile economist who crafted California’s new EPR law: “If successful, this bill will inspire other states and countries to follow”
2025 is set to be an exciting year for textile recycling, marked by the roll out of the EU's first leg of its Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) framework and California's pioneering textile EPR law. For the latter, textile economist Joanne Brasch, from California Product Stewardship Council (CPSC) has been instrumental.
In conversation with Syre’s Sustainability and Public Affairs Director Stina Billinger, Joanne Brasch unpacks why there’s a surge in regulatory activity surrounding textiles and what role technology and innovation plays in transforming textile recycling.
Tell us a bit about yourself and why you joined CPSC?
“I joined CPSC seven years ago, motivated by my background in textile economics and policy analysis. My research at the UC Davis Medical Center, where I studied the types of textiles disposed of in hospitals, sparked my interest in addressing textile waste. This experience, coupled with CPSC's early focus on developing EPRs for medicine and pharmaceuticals, inspired me to engage with the organization. I saw a unique opportunity to drive meaningful change in the textile industry through my work at CPSC.”
Why do you think there is so much activity in the regulatory landscape concerning textiles at the moment?
“The surge in regulatory activity surrounding textiles is a response to the urgent need to address the environmental impact of the industry's historically linear business model. For decades, the textile industry has functioned on a take-make-dispose basis, significantly contributing to the spread of fast fashion. This model has resulted in staggering amounts of waste, with massive piles of discarded textiles ending up in landfills or being incinerated in places like Chile and Ghana—issues that have recently garnered significant media attention.”
“The pandemic has further intensified scrutiny on supply chains and sustainability, prompting both consumers and governments to demand more responsible practices.”
What led to the development and implementation of an EPR program for textiles in California, and how was the bill crafted?
“Implementing an Extended Producer Responsibility(EPR) program for textiles was a natural progression for CPSC, driven by a global focus on sustainability and industry readiness. The textile industry had reached a tipping point, with stakeholders recognizing the unsustainable nature of the traditional linear model. Solid evidence from local and state governments consistently highlighted textiles as a major waste issue, underscoring the urgent need for targeted action. Brands were eager to participate in and support EPR frameworks, aligning with the global push for sustainable practices.”
“Developing the bill involved extensive collaboration with stakeholders, including haulers, MRF operators, and industry representatives. A textile advisory committee was formed two years prior to drafting the bill to gather input and ensure broad support. The bill was carefully crafted, drawing from successful precedents like the packaging EPR bill, and it achieved historic endorsement levels with zero oppositions. This comprehensive approach sets a precedent for responsible production and waste management in the textile industry.”
Could you elaborate on the key objectives of California’s SB 707 and its expected impact on the textile industry, both locally and globally?
“California's SB 707 is a new legislative initiative designed to transform the textile industry by establishing an advanced recycling fee that brands pay on behalf of consumers. This fee ensures that textile waste is managed safely and accountably. The bill's primary objectives include enhancing recycling infrastructure, promoting innovation, and setting performance standards to boost textile recycling rates. Additionally, SB 707 emphasizes the importance of repair and reuse, encouraging brands to create durable products and supporting systems for extending the life of textiles. By doing so, SB 707 aims to significantly impact the textile industry, encouraging sustainable practices and reducing waste.”
“While SB 707 is a California initiative, its success could inspire other states and countries to adopt similar measures. The bill highlights the importance of incentivizing recycling and providing convenient solutions for waste management, driving a broader shift towards sustainability in the textile industry.”
How do you see the role of technology and innovation in advancing textile recycling and circularity?
“Technology and innovation are pivotal in transforming textile recycling as they revolutionize the ways textiles are sorted, processed, and reintegrated into the market as recycled materials. Advanced technologies like AI-driven sorting systems, chemical recycling methods, and blockchain for supply chain transparency are making recycling processes more efficient and effective. California's SB 707 actively supports this technological evolution by providing financial support and incentives for the development and implementation of cutting-edge recycling technologies. These incentives encourage companies to invest in innovative solutions that can handle complex textile blends and enhance the quality of recycled fibers. By doing so,the bill ensures that the industry not only adapts to current sustainability challenges but also positions itself to meet future goals.”
Looking ahead, what are your hopes for the future of textile circularity, and what role do you see for policymakers, businesses, and consumers in achieving these goals?
“Policymakers have a critical role by crafting and enforcing regulations that drive sustainability. Their support is essential in creating an environment where sustainable practices are not just encouraged but required, providing the framework within which businesses can thrive.”
“Businesses, on their part, need to lead the charge in innovation and collaboration. By developing new technologies and forming partnerships with recyclers, they can create more efficient recycling processes and design products that are easier to recycle. This not only helps in reducing waste but also in meeting consumer demand for sustainable products. By actively choosing sustainable products and participating in recycling initiatives, consumers can drive demand for circular practices.”
What advice would you give to companies looking to transition towards more sustainable and circular practices?
“Collaboration is key. Joining coalitions with repair and recycling businesses can amplify efforts to advocate for and implement sustainable practices. These partnerships are crucial for developing a robust infrastructure that supports the entire life cycle of a product, from creation to end-of-life processing. Moreover, staying active during the implementation of new regulations is vital. Companies should advocate for their interests during the planning and regulation-writing phases to ensure that their needs and capabilities are considered.”
“Building strong relationships with end-of-life processors not only helps in proving the recyclability of products but also ensures that companies are aligned with the latest recycling technologies and practices. This collaboration can facilitate the sharing of knowledge and resources, making it easier to navigate the complexities of recycling and waste management.”
“Moreover, companies should prioritize designing products with recyclability in mind. This involves selecting materials that are easier to recycle and considering the entire life cycle of the product during the design phase. Aligning product designs with regulatory requirements is also essential to ensure compliance and long-term success in a circular economy.”